On the runway wealth whispers, but on Grounds wealth screams

Ayman Raakin / V Mag at UVA

A current upward trend on runways and the fashion world is the concept of “wealth whispers” or “quiet luxury.”  Although more reserved, classic and minimal than logos flaunting expensive brands, this pared-down aesthetic nonetheless flexes wealth and high status. The name, derived from the phrase “money talks, but wealth whispers,” was originally popularized on TikTok. 

“Quiet luxury” is simultaneously more simple and more expensive than traditional high fashion status symbols. The look relies on the concept that old-money elites do not feel the need to convey their wealth in the clothes they wear. Think of an off-duty Kendall Jenner donning a relatively plain — but clearly high-priced — silk dress accessorized with a simple navy cardigan and Ralph Lauren baseball cap.

When college students attempt to emulate this chic look, however, flashy brands often eek into their stylings. True “quiet luxury” brands — such as Loewe, The Row and Bottega Veneta — whose price ranges in the thousands, prove unaffordable for most young people. Instead, wealthy students on-Grounds tend to go for recognizable logos at a still expensive price, but relatively affordable price point. 

Ideally, although minimalist designer pieces still cost a pretty penny, the styles are easier to imitate than logo-centric items. “Quiet luxury” in its authentic form would provide an opportunity for students of all backgrounds to participate in fashion trends.

U.Va.’s version of quiet luxury, however, strays so far from the original definition that it often serves to exclude rather than include. The oversaturation of coveted pieces creates an effect of wealth screaming in one’s face instead of whispering. 

After experiencing fashion on-Grounds, second-year College student Victoria Spitzer said these expensive outfits start to feel like a trend that exists solely to signify status.

“I’m more surprised when I don’t see someone wearing Lululemon,” Spitzer said. “Of course at first, like any trend, I wanted to conform, but all it took was one look at the price tag and my mind was made up. I’m not willing to spend that much so there is no point even trying to conform.”

“Logomania,” the trend of high fashion designers using their logo or brand name as the principal element of their design, peaked in ‘90s fashion, which again re-emerged in the last decade. The trend persists at U.Va., where pricier brands like Lululemon, Ugg, Free People have become the fashion norm, a mere expectation. Even higher luxury brands like Gucci, David Yurman, Cartier, Van Cleef and Dior are getting to be commonplace.

In stark contrast to this easy visibility, the allure of high fashion involves the ability to identify sought-after pieces. For example, a purse worth thousands of dollars may be noticed by only those who know how to identify a brand's signature color, logo, label or shape. 

Yet on-Grounds, “quiet luxury” has become loud — $625 Golden Goose sneakers on the dirty floor at the frat, Cartier and David Yurman on the wrist of a classmate in lecture, Van Cleef earrings dangling next to Airpods, casual Ralph Lauren sweaters, LoveShackFancy dresses on the corner and Lululemon head to toe all day every day. 

When “quiet luxury” is everywhere, its whisper becomes a scream, and the norm or “expected” look becomes unattainable. 

Spitzer went on to say that monolithic fashion culture at U.Va. has not affected her personally, but that she wishes more people would dress differently. 

“I will say that I have never felt excluded for not dawning Lulu[lemon] head to toe, but it has gotten old to look around Grounds and see the same carbon-copied outfits everywhere,” Spritzer said. 

In the face of a wealth-driven trend cycle, some groups on Grounds are attempting to promote sustainability, community and comfortability by emphasizing thrifting and sustainable consumption. One of these groups is SWAP, a fairly new CIO that organizes clothing swap events where students can donate their old clothes and “swap” them for new ones.

Abigail Gruener, SWAP vice president and third-year College student, said SWAP gave her the confidence to explore her style and how she hopes it can help others.

“SWAP helped me create my individualism when I originally felt more lost at U.Va.,” Gruener said. “Joining SWAP, I've learned that everyone, regardless of their economic status, can be who they are and appreciate who they are, whether that be through clothing or through self-expression. If you want to wear a full Lululemon outfit or all vintage clothes, you can do that.”

This phenomenon on Grounds could be explained in part by the greater trend of in-style pieces and “must haves” becoming more expensive. Tiktoker @michelleskidelsky theorized that it is more expensive to be a trendy “it-girl” today than it was eight to ten years ago. 

For example, the trending lip balm eight to ten years ago was Maybelliene’s Baby Lips or EOS lip balm, which both retailed at around three to four dollars. Today the “must have” lip balm is the Glossier Balm dotcom at $14, the Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm at $24 or the Dior Addict Lip Glow at $40 each. It is more expensive to follow health, beauty and fashion trends now than it was ten years ago.

Now, students are feeling this inflation on what it means to be “on-trend.” As a student with a strong sense of personal style, second-year College student Nora Kertache resists pressure to stay on-trend.

“I have noticed that it is getting more expensive to keep up with new products going around TikTok and people at school,” Kertache said. “I try not to fall into that fashion style because it doesn’t feel like me — I like to thrift and find pieces that may be unique to me while also being reasonably priced.”

The oversaturation of expensive and luxury pieces on Grounds has taken the “quiet” out of quiet luxury. When everyone is dressing with the same overtly name-brand pieces, students with less money to spend find it harder to stay on trend. Given U.Va.’s largely affluent student body, loud luxury becomes an expectation in some circles and assumes the status of monoculture.

Combined with the allure of trendy fashion on social media, this tendency has created a distorted form of the trends runway fashion sets. When name-brand clothing becomes synonymous with style, everyone loses.